Post by Ani on Jan 28, 2013 15:19:55 GMT 1
Standards for Episode III Darth Vader, Pre-Armor
INNER TUNIC:
Inner tunic is made in a style similar to a karate gi, is worn tucked into the pants, and is only visible at the neckline and wrists when outer tunic is worn. The inner tunic should be somewhat loose-fitting, but still follow the contours of the upper body, not unlike the fit of a mens’ fitted style dress shirt.
As with the outer tunic, the inner tunic is worn with left front flap folded across right. Each flap may be secured to the inner tunic at the opposite side-seams with deep brown string-ties or velcro. There is a 1.5” wide folded edging/facing along each side of the front-opening flaps. When inner tunic is fastened, the neckline should form a v-neck just slightly below the adam’s apple.
The lower sleeves of the inner tunic are “ruched sleeves”, which appear bunched at the wrists up to mid-forearm. (ruched sleeves are made by cutting lower sleeve pattern to extend approximately 10” to 12” past the fingertips when measured against the length of your arm, with the area from elbow to wrist being only slightly bigger in circumference than your forearm so that the fit is close to skin; the lower/cuff opening of sleeve should be just large enough in circumference for hand to fit through very snugly, but not so loose that the sleeve can slip over hand and hang loose. This causes the extra 10” to 12” of extra sleeve length to fall neatly in bunched foldings from wrist to mid forearm when inner tunic is worn)
The sleeves should be hemmed at the ends with a narrow folded single-stitched shirt-tail hem approx 1/8” wide or less.
Fabric: The original screen-used inner tunic fabric was a lightweight marocain crepe called "stretch crepe", from Satin Moon Fabrics in San Fransisco, CA, and the color is Sable # 194. (note: "marocain" is a woven crepe fabric with a wavy rib effect in the weft resulting from the use of high twist yarns - it has a raised, wavy texture which appears slightly lighter and/or weathered in color. )
(note: screen-used inner tunic fabric can still be purchased at Satin Moon Fabrics, but it is extremely costly and not always available. Therefore fabrics which approximate the same color and texture are acceptable - the closest color match would be DMC floss #3371)
***
OUTER TUNIC:
The outer tunic is also similar to an A-line karate gi, and is basically the same tunic style as Simplicity costume pattern #5840, only with shoulder-tucks added and a slight increase of the flare to the skirt part of tunic from waistline to hem. There is a 2” folded facing/edging along the front openings, and the fabric texture runs parallel with the edge of the front openings. As with the inner tunic, the outer tunic is worn with front opening flaps left-over right. The fabric texture of sleeves should run vertically from shoulder to wrist; and on the front and back of the tunic the texture should run vertically along the torso. The sleeve-length should be cut approximately 5” longer than arm length plus 2” hem allowance, and then inset at the shoulder seams to form recessed shoulder-tucks. The sleeve extends to the knuckles when hemmed, and has a wide bell-bottom. Right sleeve is worn tucked into the top of the glove.
The outer tunic length should extend to mid-thigh when hemmed. There is a waist seam which should run horizontally around entire waistline of tunic, and the facing/edging of front openings ends at the waist seam on each front opening flap.
Fabric: The screen-used outer tunic fabric was made from a very dark brown, cotton loose waffle/crinkle weave.
The actual screen-used fabric is currently unavailable, therefore the closest approximation is called "Handwoven Natural Fabric" from The Drharma Trading Company. (DharmaTrading.com) It is a white 100% cotton loose-weave medium-weight homespun fabric which must be pre-washed in hot water several times and then dyed. When pre-washed, the weave tightens into a very similar crinkle-weave pattern to the screen-used tunic fabric.
Another close alternative is cotton Calcutta cloth, which also may be dyed to a deep brown.
When dyed, the color should match DMC floss #3371.
~ Optional Tunic-Sleeve Modification -
For fit and comfort when glove is worn, the right sleeve length may be cut to mid forarm, then gathered and sewn to a very snug form-fitting black lycra sleeve which extends from mid-forearm down to wrist. The lycra sleeve portion is then tucked out of sight into the glove, and tunic sleeve is slightly bloused over edge of glove. This was the case in the original screen-used tunic.
***
PANTS:
Medium mahogany brown, made of lightweight cotton twill. Pants are tucked into boots and only very slightly bloused over boot-tops. Side seams on legs must be single-stitch dress-pant or work-pant style, not double-stitched casual or blue jean stitching. The commonly used pants by most 501st Anakin costumers is Dickies Flat-front Work Pants # 874, and the color is Brown/Mahogany. A comparable style/brand of work pants to Dickies Flat-front Work Pants may be worn, but the pants must have no visible tags or labels stitched on, and no pockets or flaps on knees or sides of legs. The color should match Anchor floss # 0382.
(note: if a belt is worn with pants, it must be a lightweight cloth webbing/military style belt, must match the exact color of pants and must be fastened with snaps or velcro, not a buckle.)
***
CLOTH TABARDS:
Made from the same fabric as the outer tunic, with the texture running vertically. These are the same length as the outer tunic. Cloth tabards are 6” wide. In the front, there is a waist seam and lower tabard flaps which extend to the same hemline length as the lower tunic. In the back, the cloth tabards end at the waistline, and may be attached to the outer tunic via velcro or heavy duty snaps which are hidden on the underside of the tabards.
***
LEATHER TABARDS:
The leather tabards are each 6.75” wide, and are double-backed. (self-lined, leather on both sides)
For smaller body types, tabard width can be decreased to as low as 6”, for larger builds, it can be increased to as much as 7.5”.
There is a seam at top of shoulders, and a waist seam. The color is a very dark brown, matched to DMC floss #3371. The screen-used leather was a fine-grained sheepskin leather rather than cowhide, however, either sheepskin or a fine-grained cowhide leather is acceptable. The leather tabards extend 3" longer than the outer tunic in the front and back.
(optional modification: for proper fit, the leather tabards may be attached to the cloth tabards with hidden velcro or snaps on the underside of the tabbards at the waistline, either in front, or back, or both)
***
OBI:
Made from the same fabric as the outer tunic. The fabric texture should run on the diagonal. Folds and wrinkles which match the screen-used obi are optional, and may be hand-sewn into position along the midline of the obi. If velcro is used to secure the obi, as opposed to a traditional Japanese wrapped and tucked obi, velcro must not be visible on the outside surfaces of obi. (pattern for obi may be adapted from Simplicity tunic pattern #5840)
***
BELT:
Two layered belt made of deep brown leather which is at least 1/8” thick. Outer layer is 2 1/4" wide, and smaller belt worn centered on top of that is 3/4" wide. The narrow belt is held in place with silver stud rivets, one above and one below. There are four pairs of stud rivets spaced approx 8” to either side of center of front and back of belt. The buckle is chromed silver, rectangular, approx 1” wide x 2” long, and has side press-buttons and a snap closure.
There are three specific pouches on the belt:
1. leather pouch - tall snap-closure flap-top vertical style pouch made of deep brown/dark maroon stained thick leather; (dimensions are approx 7/8” thick, 5 -3/8" tall, 3" wide) The flap lid has a semi-circular lower edge which snaps closed 1- 1/4" from bottom of pouch on front surface. The pouch leather is adorned with vertical thin-line scorings which are ¼” apart.
2. grapple-hook pouch - reddish dark brown rectangular pouch with convex curved sides; (dimensions are 2- 5/8" tall x 4- 1/4" wide x 1-3/8" thick) pouch can be functional or simply a closed prop, made of either resin or wood; Pouch lid is aligned with body of pouch, hinged at the back, and constitutes approximately 1" of the pouch's height. Centered on the front of the pouch is an embossed/recessed bevel-edge rectangular area 1-5/8" wide x 2" tall, which runs verticall over both body and lid of pouch. The opening/axis line of the pouch is 1" down from the top edge, and centered on the front of the pouch in the embossed area at this axis is a weathered/tarnished brass/gold oval metal disc which is 1/2" tall x 1- 3/8" wide.
3. wide pouch – rectangular, either leather or wood, with snap-lid closure; (dimensions are 4 -1/4" tall x 5 -1/8" wide x 1- 5/8" thick) Heat-scored/embossed into the pouch across the front surface are three 1/2"-wide rounded-bottom gulleys which run diagonally across at approx 30-degrees and are parallel to each other; gulleys are stained a slightly deeper brown; The pouch lid folds over from back of pouch and across the top, curving to a 3" wide flap at the center of the pouch front; this flap snaps closed with two 1/2" diameter domed snaps which are centered on the flap and placed 1-3/4" from each other. Snaps are stained or painted the same color as the leather of the pouch.
***
FOOD CAPSULES:
There are eight food capsules - two in antique-gold finish, two in silver matte finish, two in copper matte finish, and two in gunmetal grey matte finish. The original screen-used food capsules were made from Staedtler Liquid Roller Gel pen caps with Plastruct 7/16" Hemispherical Vessel Heads glued into the open ends of the pen caps, giving them their domed appearance. (actual part number is Plastruct # VHH-14) The dimensions of the food capsule props once constructed are 2-1/4" length x 3/8" diameter.
The are clipped onto the belt (the wide belt, not the narrow inner belt) and arranged as shown in diagram below. Top edges of food capsules should be aligned roughly with the top of the tall comlink pouch.
Also on the belt is a black Covertec cell-phone/utility clip which is used to secure light saber onto the belt.
***
BOOTS:
Dark brown heavy-grade leather, with front-zip closure which runs from top of foot over shin and to top edge of boot. Boots have a separate shin-guard/spat which attaches to the boot with velcro and hides zipper. Spat/shinguard fastens to boot just above the instep/arch, covering where the boot zipper begins, and extends to 1” past the top of the boot. (top of boot under spat extends just to knee) Spat width should wrap to mid-sides of each lower leg, and the spat should be made of vertical strips of leather stitched 1” apart from each other with rough leather edges showing at the seam. Two horizontal 1" bands of leather are below the top of the spat, running around entire boot. These bands are spaced 1.25” apart from each other vertically, and a third horizontal band runs around the boot at the ankle. Each of these three horizontal bands should fasten closed with an overlap which has velcro on the underside of the band. On each band there are two 1” wide leather loops which hide the velcro areas and reinforce the closure of the band. Loops are placed roughly 3” apart, on outer side of boot. At the heel of the boot are three parallel horizontal ridged seams, each approx 3” long, and each spaced approx ½” apart from the other.
***
GAUNTLET GLOVE:
Dark brown leather gauntlet (screen-used glove was made of sheepskin), with three padded sections which run around the circumference of the gauntlet, and two rows of stitching between each padded section, each row 1/16” apart from the other. Three silver buckles are along the outer (dorsal) side of gauntlet/forearm, centered in each padded section. Weathering/tarnishing to match screen-used buckles is optional. (note: original screen-used buckles were from a pair of Sidi Motorcycle boots)
Gauntlet has three folded-edge leather straps which seat along the raised/padded sections and connect to the D-loops on the sides of the buckles. Each leather strap is 1.5” wide. Length of strap should be adequate to fasten to one side D-ring of the metal buckles and run around the circumference of the gauntlet to fasten at the other D-ring of the buckle. Three 1” wide strips of black, flat, ribbed/finned rubber threshhold gasket are glued along the leather straps which run across the underside (ventral surface) of the gauntlet forearm. (screen-worn style of black gasket material had 7-fins / ribs)
On the back of the hand area, the glove has a pentagon-shaped field with raised sewn channels which run horizontally across back of hand, from the knuckles to the wrist. Each channel is sewn ¼” apart, and is filled with very thin aquarium tubing to give it a raised “flak-padding” look, then all tubing-filled channels are sewn shut at the sides.
***
ROBE:
The Anakin/Vader robe is unlike any of the other Jedi or Sith cloaks. The hood is a slightly larger, and hangs down to mid-torso when hood is not being worn. The robe is floor-length, unlined, with a 2-2.5” hem. Robe has very spacious bell-bottom sleeves with 3-4” hems. Hemmed sleeve edge should extend to approximately 7” past fingertips when arms are at sides, and sleeve edge should angle downward towards the back of body, so that the back end of sleeve hem hangs approximately 10” below fingertips when arms are down by sides.
The hood is gathered at the neckline evenly, with fold-over pleats. A narrow casing which is approximately 1” thick serves as piping to cover the edge where the pleated hood is sewn to the robe. The pleats run the entire length around the neckline of robe and end at each edge of front robe-opening. There is no front facing on the front-openings of robe, and the front edges are hemmed at 1".
Fabric: The original screen-used robe was made from a very unique and specific weave of wool which is no longer being manufactured. The closest substitute is wool crepe, in a color which matches DMC floss #3371, and of a medium to light weight so that the robe will flow easily.
***
HAIRSTYLE:
Hair should be styled as Vader’s appears in Episode III. The style is slightly curly, and is called a “long shag” haircut. (also called a modified “Alexander-the-Great” cut, but slightly longer in back and at sides) The color is dark ash blonde/light brown. This hairstyle may also be achieved with either a human hair wig or a good quality acrylic-fiber wig, in the above-mentioned style and color. (fusion or glue-in hair extensions may also be used to augment your own hair to the proper style, but again, the resulting style should match the above-mentioned style and color) Hairstyle is worn parted on the extreme right side just past line of brow-bone, swept to the side and off of forehead in the front and left loose and tousled at back and sides.
Sideburns are medium to light brown in color, trimmed to hair-length of approx ¼” long, and should be shaped at the bottom in a moderate angular 70’s style. Sideburns are approx. ¾ to 1” wide and extend downward on the cheek to just past the earlobe.
***
MAKE-UP:
I. Dark circles under both eyes - (to portray Vader's sleepless, stressed appearance) These may be made using a very light smudging of brown eyeliner or theatrical makeup, applied with fingertip, beginning at inner corner of eyes and angled downward towards your cheeks, then smudged at the ends to blend into skin tone. There should also be the slight appearance of redness under each eye, along the lower eyelid. This can be achieved by lining the lower eye with a deep red lip pencil, and finger-smudging it to blend into the skin tone underneath the eye.
II. Forehead/cheek scar on right side of face -
Forehead scar runs vertically from the top of the eye brow up to mid-forehead, placed approx .5" from the corner of the right eye. Scar resumes just underneath right eye and runs vertically for approx 1”, angling slightly towards outer cheekbone.
(note: forehead scar is a partially-healed burn-scar, which should appear slightly recessed in the center and the skin slightly raised on either side of the scar. This effect can be achieved with rigid collodion, latex prosthetics, or gelatin, and then very subtly shaded with theatrical makeup and pencils to achieve various subdued pinkish/red and flesh tones)
III. Left cheek scars - (these are optional)
These are two healed and very subtle thin recessed scars, each with barely a hint of plum color in them, and can be seen on Anakin/Vader’s face from the side view, very visible in the opera scene of Episode III where he meets with Palpatine. One scar is approx ¾” long, and runs horizontally, starting just under the left cheekbone. The other is approx ½” long an runs vertically, starting just beneath and to the front of the horizontal scar. These scars, if done, should be very subtle and thin, and can be created simply, using a thin layer of rigid collodion, followed by a thin hint of deep plum/mauve pencil smudged inside the recessed scar once collodion is dry.
***
CONTACT LENSES:
Lenses should be yellow to yellow-orange tinted, with small wisps of deep red which feather in from around the circumference of the iris/lens. CoastalContacts.com carries the exact replica of the screen-used contact lenses, and the lens style is aptly named, “Vader”.
NOTE: this lens requirement may be waived at the discretion of the LMO or GML if unable to wear contact lenses due to health issues or eye curvature incompatibility.
***
LIGHT SABER:
Saber hilt must be screen-accurate and to correct scale. May be either a Master Replicas Anakin EpIII, a custom build, or a modified Graflex.
***
INNER TUNIC:
Inner tunic is made in a style similar to a karate gi, is worn tucked into the pants, and is only visible at the neckline and wrists when outer tunic is worn. The inner tunic should be somewhat loose-fitting, but still follow the contours of the upper body, not unlike the fit of a mens’ fitted style dress shirt.
As with the outer tunic, the inner tunic is worn with left front flap folded across right. Each flap may be secured to the inner tunic at the opposite side-seams with deep brown string-ties or velcro. There is a 1.5” wide folded edging/facing along each side of the front-opening flaps. When inner tunic is fastened, the neckline should form a v-neck just slightly below the adam’s apple.
The lower sleeves of the inner tunic are “ruched sleeves”, which appear bunched at the wrists up to mid-forearm. (ruched sleeves are made by cutting lower sleeve pattern to extend approximately 10” to 12” past the fingertips when measured against the length of your arm, with the area from elbow to wrist being only slightly bigger in circumference than your forearm so that the fit is close to skin; the lower/cuff opening of sleeve should be just large enough in circumference for hand to fit through very snugly, but not so loose that the sleeve can slip over hand and hang loose. This causes the extra 10” to 12” of extra sleeve length to fall neatly in bunched foldings from wrist to mid forearm when inner tunic is worn)
The sleeves should be hemmed at the ends with a narrow folded single-stitched shirt-tail hem approx 1/8” wide or less.
Fabric: The original screen-used inner tunic fabric was a lightweight marocain crepe called "stretch crepe", from Satin Moon Fabrics in San Fransisco, CA, and the color is Sable # 194. (note: "marocain" is a woven crepe fabric with a wavy rib effect in the weft resulting from the use of high twist yarns - it has a raised, wavy texture which appears slightly lighter and/or weathered in color. )
(note: screen-used inner tunic fabric can still be purchased at Satin Moon Fabrics, but it is extremely costly and not always available. Therefore fabrics which approximate the same color and texture are acceptable - the closest color match would be DMC floss #3371)
***
OUTER TUNIC:
The outer tunic is also similar to an A-line karate gi, and is basically the same tunic style as Simplicity costume pattern #5840, only with shoulder-tucks added and a slight increase of the flare to the skirt part of tunic from waistline to hem. There is a 2” folded facing/edging along the front openings, and the fabric texture runs parallel with the edge of the front openings. As with the inner tunic, the outer tunic is worn with front opening flaps left-over right. The fabric texture of sleeves should run vertically from shoulder to wrist; and on the front and back of the tunic the texture should run vertically along the torso. The sleeve-length should be cut approximately 5” longer than arm length plus 2” hem allowance, and then inset at the shoulder seams to form recessed shoulder-tucks. The sleeve extends to the knuckles when hemmed, and has a wide bell-bottom. Right sleeve is worn tucked into the top of the glove.
The outer tunic length should extend to mid-thigh when hemmed. There is a waist seam which should run horizontally around entire waistline of tunic, and the facing/edging of front openings ends at the waist seam on each front opening flap.
Fabric: The screen-used outer tunic fabric was made from a very dark brown, cotton loose waffle/crinkle weave.
The actual screen-used fabric is currently unavailable, therefore the closest approximation is called "Handwoven Natural Fabric" from The Drharma Trading Company. (DharmaTrading.com) It is a white 100% cotton loose-weave medium-weight homespun fabric which must be pre-washed in hot water several times and then dyed. When pre-washed, the weave tightens into a very similar crinkle-weave pattern to the screen-used tunic fabric.
Another close alternative is cotton Calcutta cloth, which also may be dyed to a deep brown.
When dyed, the color should match DMC floss #3371.
~ Optional Tunic-Sleeve Modification -
For fit and comfort when glove is worn, the right sleeve length may be cut to mid forarm, then gathered and sewn to a very snug form-fitting black lycra sleeve which extends from mid-forearm down to wrist. The lycra sleeve portion is then tucked out of sight into the glove, and tunic sleeve is slightly bloused over edge of glove. This was the case in the original screen-used tunic.
***
PANTS:
Medium mahogany brown, made of lightweight cotton twill. Pants are tucked into boots and only very slightly bloused over boot-tops. Side seams on legs must be single-stitch dress-pant or work-pant style, not double-stitched casual or blue jean stitching. The commonly used pants by most 501st Anakin costumers is Dickies Flat-front Work Pants # 874, and the color is Brown/Mahogany. A comparable style/brand of work pants to Dickies Flat-front Work Pants may be worn, but the pants must have no visible tags or labels stitched on, and no pockets or flaps on knees or sides of legs. The color should match Anchor floss # 0382.
(note: if a belt is worn with pants, it must be a lightweight cloth webbing/military style belt, must match the exact color of pants and must be fastened with snaps or velcro, not a buckle.)
***
CLOTH TABARDS:
Made from the same fabric as the outer tunic, with the texture running vertically. These are the same length as the outer tunic. Cloth tabards are 6” wide. In the front, there is a waist seam and lower tabard flaps which extend to the same hemline length as the lower tunic. In the back, the cloth tabards end at the waistline, and may be attached to the outer tunic via velcro or heavy duty snaps which are hidden on the underside of the tabards.
***
LEATHER TABARDS:
The leather tabards are each 6.75” wide, and are double-backed. (self-lined, leather on both sides)
For smaller body types, tabard width can be decreased to as low as 6”, for larger builds, it can be increased to as much as 7.5”.
There is a seam at top of shoulders, and a waist seam. The color is a very dark brown, matched to DMC floss #3371. The screen-used leather was a fine-grained sheepskin leather rather than cowhide, however, either sheepskin or a fine-grained cowhide leather is acceptable. The leather tabards extend 3" longer than the outer tunic in the front and back.
(optional modification: for proper fit, the leather tabards may be attached to the cloth tabards with hidden velcro or snaps on the underside of the tabbards at the waistline, either in front, or back, or both)
***
OBI:
Made from the same fabric as the outer tunic. The fabric texture should run on the diagonal. Folds and wrinkles which match the screen-used obi are optional, and may be hand-sewn into position along the midline of the obi. If velcro is used to secure the obi, as opposed to a traditional Japanese wrapped and tucked obi, velcro must not be visible on the outside surfaces of obi. (pattern for obi may be adapted from Simplicity tunic pattern #5840)
***
BELT:
Two layered belt made of deep brown leather which is at least 1/8” thick. Outer layer is 2 1/4" wide, and smaller belt worn centered on top of that is 3/4" wide. The narrow belt is held in place with silver stud rivets, one above and one below. There are four pairs of stud rivets spaced approx 8” to either side of center of front and back of belt. The buckle is chromed silver, rectangular, approx 1” wide x 2” long, and has side press-buttons and a snap closure.
There are three specific pouches on the belt:
1. leather pouch - tall snap-closure flap-top vertical style pouch made of deep brown/dark maroon stained thick leather; (dimensions are approx 7/8” thick, 5 -3/8" tall, 3" wide) The flap lid has a semi-circular lower edge which snaps closed 1- 1/4" from bottom of pouch on front surface. The pouch leather is adorned with vertical thin-line scorings which are ¼” apart.
2. grapple-hook pouch - reddish dark brown rectangular pouch with convex curved sides; (dimensions are 2- 5/8" tall x 4- 1/4" wide x 1-3/8" thick) pouch can be functional or simply a closed prop, made of either resin or wood; Pouch lid is aligned with body of pouch, hinged at the back, and constitutes approximately 1" of the pouch's height. Centered on the front of the pouch is an embossed/recessed bevel-edge rectangular area 1-5/8" wide x 2" tall, which runs verticall over both body and lid of pouch. The opening/axis line of the pouch is 1" down from the top edge, and centered on the front of the pouch in the embossed area at this axis is a weathered/tarnished brass/gold oval metal disc which is 1/2" tall x 1- 3/8" wide.
3. wide pouch – rectangular, either leather or wood, with snap-lid closure; (dimensions are 4 -1/4" tall x 5 -1/8" wide x 1- 5/8" thick) Heat-scored/embossed into the pouch across the front surface are three 1/2"-wide rounded-bottom gulleys which run diagonally across at approx 30-degrees and are parallel to each other; gulleys are stained a slightly deeper brown; The pouch lid folds over from back of pouch and across the top, curving to a 3" wide flap at the center of the pouch front; this flap snaps closed with two 1/2" diameter domed snaps which are centered on the flap and placed 1-3/4" from each other. Snaps are stained or painted the same color as the leather of the pouch.
***
FOOD CAPSULES:
There are eight food capsules - two in antique-gold finish, two in silver matte finish, two in copper matte finish, and two in gunmetal grey matte finish. The original screen-used food capsules were made from Staedtler Liquid Roller Gel pen caps with Plastruct 7/16" Hemispherical Vessel Heads glued into the open ends of the pen caps, giving them their domed appearance. (actual part number is Plastruct # VHH-14) The dimensions of the food capsule props once constructed are 2-1/4" length x 3/8" diameter.
The are clipped onto the belt (the wide belt, not the narrow inner belt) and arranged as shown in diagram below. Top edges of food capsules should be aligned roughly with the top of the tall comlink pouch.
Also on the belt is a black Covertec cell-phone/utility clip which is used to secure light saber onto the belt.
***
BOOTS:
Dark brown heavy-grade leather, with front-zip closure which runs from top of foot over shin and to top edge of boot. Boots have a separate shin-guard/spat which attaches to the boot with velcro and hides zipper. Spat/shinguard fastens to boot just above the instep/arch, covering where the boot zipper begins, and extends to 1” past the top of the boot. (top of boot under spat extends just to knee) Spat width should wrap to mid-sides of each lower leg, and the spat should be made of vertical strips of leather stitched 1” apart from each other with rough leather edges showing at the seam. Two horizontal 1" bands of leather are below the top of the spat, running around entire boot. These bands are spaced 1.25” apart from each other vertically, and a third horizontal band runs around the boot at the ankle. Each of these three horizontal bands should fasten closed with an overlap which has velcro on the underside of the band. On each band there are two 1” wide leather loops which hide the velcro areas and reinforce the closure of the band. Loops are placed roughly 3” apart, on outer side of boot. At the heel of the boot are three parallel horizontal ridged seams, each approx 3” long, and each spaced approx ½” apart from the other.
***
GAUNTLET GLOVE:
Dark brown leather gauntlet (screen-used glove was made of sheepskin), with three padded sections which run around the circumference of the gauntlet, and two rows of stitching between each padded section, each row 1/16” apart from the other. Three silver buckles are along the outer (dorsal) side of gauntlet/forearm, centered in each padded section. Weathering/tarnishing to match screen-used buckles is optional. (note: original screen-used buckles were from a pair of Sidi Motorcycle boots)
Gauntlet has three folded-edge leather straps which seat along the raised/padded sections and connect to the D-loops on the sides of the buckles. Each leather strap is 1.5” wide. Length of strap should be adequate to fasten to one side D-ring of the metal buckles and run around the circumference of the gauntlet to fasten at the other D-ring of the buckle. Three 1” wide strips of black, flat, ribbed/finned rubber threshhold gasket are glued along the leather straps which run across the underside (ventral surface) of the gauntlet forearm. (screen-worn style of black gasket material had 7-fins / ribs)
On the back of the hand area, the glove has a pentagon-shaped field with raised sewn channels which run horizontally across back of hand, from the knuckles to the wrist. Each channel is sewn ¼” apart, and is filled with very thin aquarium tubing to give it a raised “flak-padding” look, then all tubing-filled channels are sewn shut at the sides.
***
ROBE:
The Anakin/Vader robe is unlike any of the other Jedi or Sith cloaks. The hood is a slightly larger, and hangs down to mid-torso when hood is not being worn. The robe is floor-length, unlined, with a 2-2.5” hem. Robe has very spacious bell-bottom sleeves with 3-4” hems. Hemmed sleeve edge should extend to approximately 7” past fingertips when arms are at sides, and sleeve edge should angle downward towards the back of body, so that the back end of sleeve hem hangs approximately 10” below fingertips when arms are down by sides.
The hood is gathered at the neckline evenly, with fold-over pleats. A narrow casing which is approximately 1” thick serves as piping to cover the edge where the pleated hood is sewn to the robe. The pleats run the entire length around the neckline of robe and end at each edge of front robe-opening. There is no front facing on the front-openings of robe, and the front edges are hemmed at 1".
Fabric: The original screen-used robe was made from a very unique and specific weave of wool which is no longer being manufactured. The closest substitute is wool crepe, in a color which matches DMC floss #3371, and of a medium to light weight so that the robe will flow easily.
***
HAIRSTYLE:
Hair should be styled as Vader’s appears in Episode III. The style is slightly curly, and is called a “long shag” haircut. (also called a modified “Alexander-the-Great” cut, but slightly longer in back and at sides) The color is dark ash blonde/light brown. This hairstyle may also be achieved with either a human hair wig or a good quality acrylic-fiber wig, in the above-mentioned style and color. (fusion or glue-in hair extensions may also be used to augment your own hair to the proper style, but again, the resulting style should match the above-mentioned style and color) Hairstyle is worn parted on the extreme right side just past line of brow-bone, swept to the side and off of forehead in the front and left loose and tousled at back and sides.
Sideburns are medium to light brown in color, trimmed to hair-length of approx ¼” long, and should be shaped at the bottom in a moderate angular 70’s style. Sideburns are approx. ¾ to 1” wide and extend downward on the cheek to just past the earlobe.
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MAKE-UP:
I. Dark circles under both eyes - (to portray Vader's sleepless, stressed appearance) These may be made using a very light smudging of brown eyeliner or theatrical makeup, applied with fingertip, beginning at inner corner of eyes and angled downward towards your cheeks, then smudged at the ends to blend into skin tone. There should also be the slight appearance of redness under each eye, along the lower eyelid. This can be achieved by lining the lower eye with a deep red lip pencil, and finger-smudging it to blend into the skin tone underneath the eye.
II. Forehead/cheek scar on right side of face -
Forehead scar runs vertically from the top of the eye brow up to mid-forehead, placed approx .5" from the corner of the right eye. Scar resumes just underneath right eye and runs vertically for approx 1”, angling slightly towards outer cheekbone.
(note: forehead scar is a partially-healed burn-scar, which should appear slightly recessed in the center and the skin slightly raised on either side of the scar. This effect can be achieved with rigid collodion, latex prosthetics, or gelatin, and then very subtly shaded with theatrical makeup and pencils to achieve various subdued pinkish/red and flesh tones)
III. Left cheek scars - (these are optional)
These are two healed and very subtle thin recessed scars, each with barely a hint of plum color in them, and can be seen on Anakin/Vader’s face from the side view, very visible in the opera scene of Episode III where he meets with Palpatine. One scar is approx ¾” long, and runs horizontally, starting just under the left cheekbone. The other is approx ½” long an runs vertically, starting just beneath and to the front of the horizontal scar. These scars, if done, should be very subtle and thin, and can be created simply, using a thin layer of rigid collodion, followed by a thin hint of deep plum/mauve pencil smudged inside the recessed scar once collodion is dry.
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CONTACT LENSES:
Lenses should be yellow to yellow-orange tinted, with small wisps of deep red which feather in from around the circumference of the iris/lens. CoastalContacts.com carries the exact replica of the screen-used contact lenses, and the lens style is aptly named, “Vader”.
NOTE: this lens requirement may be waived at the discretion of the LMO or GML if unable to wear contact lenses due to health issues or eye curvature incompatibility.
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LIGHT SABER:
Saber hilt must be screen-accurate and to correct scale. May be either a Master Replicas Anakin EpIII, a custom build, or a modified Graflex.
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